“A gravel grind under the looming Matterhorn.
— Nick Wilder
From the southwest corner of town, follow the wide dirt path up to Zmutt village. This fairy-tale village is made of tiny houses with stone roofs and small barns called mazots, which have interesting stone plates to keep out rodents. Some are many hundreds of years old.
Past the village, head downhill briefly, cross a bridge, and crank up steeply to a dirt road maintained by a power company. Take a right and follow this road past a dam and reservoir, where views open up to the huge glacier moraines of this valley. High above you is the Matterhorn, with glaciers that appear ready to collapse and take out this section of trail at any time.
Start up the switchback section, with increasingly loose rock, and break above treeline. The views are quite amazing. Once done with the steep climb, cruise a long flat section that traverses right across the base of the Matterhorn. A final climb takes you up to Lake Schwarzsee, where, on a clear day, you'll be amply rewarded.