MTB Project Logo

first trad lead. HELP PLEASE!


Original Post
Jared Benik · · Reno, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

so i've finally started to pick up trad climbing and i have a trip out to Lovers leap but i'm not so confident in my anchor building so i'm sticking to bolted anchors for right now. anyone know of any good multi pitch routes that have bolted anchors at the leap???

LeeAB Brinckerhoff · · ABQ, NM · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 1,508

UM, wrong web site, see mountainproject.com

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

Gear anchors while mountain biking are easy! I usually start by slinging a boulder with my spare tube, then placing a couple of tire levers (steel, of course) in constrictions. You can set Eggbeaters pedals as hexes as long as they aren't subjected to more than fifteen degrees of float. Also, if you have a Thudbuster seatpost, you can place it like a Big Bro.

Once you have all the pieces of your anchor in place, equalize it with derailleur cable housing and tie a figure-eight on a bight as your master point.

Don't forget to make your first piece multidirectional, too. If your partner goes endo, the upward pull can rip out passive placements like tire levers.

Have fun, be safe, and don't forget to tie a knot at the end of your chain when rappelling. Countless bikeaneering deaths have occurred when people rap off the end of their chain.

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

Jeremy from Cleaveland Mountaineering about to build a bike gear anchor on the second pitch of the Edge Loop at 18 Rd in Fruita.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Wheels
Post a Reply to "first trad lead. HELP PLEASE!"

Log In to Reply